Question:
I like to do this every so often, so instead of digging up old posts on the subject, I'll just rewrite another one. And I like it when folks jump in with tips they know work good too, so let's hear it drivers! Ain't a one of us has all the answers, so collectively we can get the message out on winter driving skills....
PAY ATTENTION TO, AND LEARN CHAIN LAWS! Out West, you are REQUIRED to carry specific sets of chains, even if you never plan on using them, they still MUST be carried during winter months. Normally, this setup is legal anywhere you will run:
2 sets of "doubles" (goes over both drive wheels) and two sets of "singles" (goes over a single tire -outside works best) And you'll need some wire and bungees to keep the chains tight. More on chaing later....
First and foremost: DO NOT BE PETRIFIED WITH FEAR OVER RUNNING ON SNOW-PACKED ROADS!
A healthy dose of RESPECT is better than FEAR!
When in doubt........Sit it out
Sooner or later, you will find yourself in a situation where you are just going to have to run down a snowy part of the country, unless you only run up and down Florida, that is. So how do I do it?
Carefully. The situation you encounter may have many factors determining how you are going to do it. If you can't see your hood ornament on account of the snow's falling so heavy, you drop your speed to about 20mph (or less), turn on your 4-way flashers and get on down the road like that until you find a safe place to wait it out. DO NOT STOP ON THE HIGHWAY! The only time you will ever do that is if the road gets closed, otherwise, it's the absolute WORST thing you could do! (YES, I have witnessed big trucks just "stopping" because the driver got too paniced)
If you have been sitting the storm out and the weather clears, WAIT for the highway department to get out there and do their thing! You'll see lots of fools jump out and go as soon as the gates are opened: I would strongly advise against this. All too often after a road has been closed, everyone's in an all-fired hurry to make up for lost time, they wreck and the road shuts down to clean 'em up. Be smart, Be safe. Once you are going, take it easy: You have a cold drive train and you have cold tires. Cold tires on a cold road reduce your traction ability to the extent that you could spin out MUCH easier versus running a cold road with WARM tires.
It would do you well to understand that little-taught fact. Your tires will warm up after you've traveled about 5-10 miles. The friction from the load against the tire pressure to the road will create heat, no matter WHAT the outside temp is. You want your tires warm. Now you're rolling. Do NOT...E_V_E_R let anyone else drive YOUR truck. You go down that road at the speed YOU feel comfortable with, and don't worry about what the other trucks and 4-wheelers are doing! YOU have to feel good about what's going on around you. By doing that, you keep the fear from making you grip the wheel so hard your knuckles go white.
Okay. The truck is running this snowy road pretty good, and you're satisfied with how you're doing. That's exactly what you want. Pay attention to your mirrors ALWAYS. And just watch them billy bigriggers go flying down the road, but don't get tempted to run up and join them! You just got comfortable with how things were going, why waste that? This is some of the most valuable information you can gather as a truck driver. Because bad NASTY weather can hit just aboput anywhere this time of year, and learning how your truck handles with you at the controls is a very vital part of your training.
So you're REAL happy now, nothing to it. But then you notice you're coming up to the mountanous area of the state. There's one simple rule you will make yourself thoroughly understand: UP high, DOWN low.
I don't care who made that big diesel under your hood: they all operate under the same characteristics. These are: low rpm equals MUSCLE. High rpm equals HORSEPOWER. The last thing in the world you want to is spin out on an icy hill climb. Things could get ugly there. But there is a way to get uo that snowy summit, and to get back down safely.
UP HIGH.......DOWN LOW
Normally, on a dry hill,you are going to be grabbing gears until you find one that will keep the rpm steady at around 1200-1300 rpm. This is where the truck muscles you up a hill, as it's where the motor developes it's most torque. But if you were to do that on an icy hill, that torque will do what it's been designed for, and you'll spin those tires as soon as she hits the ice. You DON'T want a spinout! Lotsa ugly things could happen there. No, we're going up this hill in a gear that will allow us to climb it around 1800 rpm. That engine speed is almost pure horsepower. And horsepower won't spin your wheels too easily. So we found 6th gear would run us up the hill at 1800rpm and 25 mph and we go up it just like that. Try to avoid any shifting, simply because most trucks will drop about 400rpm when shifting. loosing 400 rpm puts you right back down to the torque again, which means you are at 1400 now and have your foot in it, making a dangerous situation.
So you got to the top and it's still snowing (surprise!) You climbed in 6th, drop her down to 4th at the top. TURN YOUR JAKES o_f_f!! Now here's where folks can differ on whats best. I will always drop at least two gears at a summit, and have a set point, such as 1600 rpm that I will not let the truck go over. By feathering with light pressure (no more than 10 pounds if you have a gauge) I can keep my rig under control and not smoke the brakes. Heavy, HARD braking is what smokes brakes, so we are going down this mother in 4th gear, rpm's down low, and L_I_G_H_T pressure on the peddle. They will get warm, but not HOT.
So get on down the mountain like that and just continue on your way. Feel good about what you're doing, but don't get cocky about it. Remember, the road will respect the one who respected it first. It's your truck, your load, your LIFE. Give her all the respect she's earned, and you'll do just fine.............
Head Warrior, TFBU
On The Mend.....

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When you see a Billy Bigrigger hauling azz up behind you in your mirror, throwing up clouds of powdered snow, DON'T PANIC!
Let off the gas pedal and slow down a little, without touching the brakes! Make a note of where the road is, (are you on a straight stretch or a curve?), and follow it. Turn your wipers ON before you get passed!
My thoughts about tire chains; If it's nasty enough for chain laws to be in effect, I have NO business being on the road. It's nap time!

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That's one heck of a good post!
For once, I really don't have much to add
except...
In California, "Full Chains" also includes a single (drag) chain on each side of your trailer. So that's...
Main drive axel: all 4 wheels
Second drive axel: 2 outside wheels
Trailer tandems: 2 outside wheels (either axel)
That's eight single chains (or cables) out west to cover all possibilities.
Also, any chain requirement in California requires all eight cables. If they say "minimum chains", which is two single drive wheels and two single trailer wheels (4 chains), that's only for iron chains. If you have cables, you have to chain all eight wheels even when the requirement is less for actual iron chains.
Nice job Joe

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Excellent post, Joe!
One thing I'd like to add.
If you are pulling a spread axle trailer in any depth of snow, remember, that spread will NOT want to change direction. It can, and will, jacknife you if you get careless.
The trailor, reluctant to turn, will push the tractor around into it.

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Oh yeah, I like it!! Let's get all these experienced hands contributing here! That's the whole reason I didn't cover EVERYTHING. A newbie MUST understand in order to get that truck down a snowy road, certain things must be done in a certain order, and you go on down the road with no worries.
And "trainig" is sadly lacking, as I have discovered, in this area. Anyone has any specific questions about ANYTHING....by all means, ASK AWAY! We already have enough good drivers lined up to find you an answer, no mater how silly you might think the question was.
Hoss, Shuffler and Wuzzy are top hands who drive bad roads all winter and spring. They are certainly qualified to give you an answer! C'mon new and prospectively new drivers! We're here to help you out and teach you to not FEAR winter driving..........
Head Warrior, TFBU
On The Mend.....

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Use a hammer to bust off the ice chuncks that builds up on your trailer tandem air lines. Be careful not to break the air lines.
Clean your lights often. If you don't have glass cleaner and paper towels handy, a handful of snow does work in a pinch.
Keep your windows clean & clear. Take all that crap off your dash and stash it someplace else, you're blocking the defroster vents. Buy a 12v. fan to help keep windows from fogging up if the defroster can't keep up. Windshield washer fluid, buy the Purple stuff, it's good to like -35 degrees.
Drafty doors? Place duct tape over the drain holes in the bottom of the doors. This will stop about 90% of the drafts.
Cold weather is damn hard on trucks! Do your pre-trip and post-trip inspections.
Moisture in the air tanks! This will freeze your air lines! Even with the air driers they put on the trucks now days, you still have to drain the air tanks! Once a day should be sufficient.
Clean the snow and ice off your steps and the back of your trailer. If you slip and fall while climbing in, you could get hurt bad enough to spend some time in a hospital far from home. Besides, you'd look funny doin' the "floppin' crappie" in the snow.
Anybody else got more info?

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Defroster not cutting it? Try cracking your side window or vent just a hair. The draft will pull the hot air up and around, sometimes curing the problem.

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This is a great post by all. Thanks Skid Row Joe and the rest. The RPM thing is good to know. The only thing I can add is exiting and entering. It seems the sand and salt trucks try to keep the main road as clear as possible. But they seem to leave the ramps for last. I've had one surprise when exiting a fairly good road only to find a frozen over ramp.
I always slow way down prior to exiting, signaling way in advance to avoid any surprises. Then feathering the brake I let it slowly come to a stop. I've seen trucks go sideways both exiting and entering the highway.
"Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of all who threaten it"

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Great advice by all....
I would like to add, make sure your fifth wheel is lubed, a dry surface can put you in the ditch.

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I might add that when on snowy or black iced roads , when approaching a bridge or underpass to just let off the throttle and let it drift across that bridge or under the overpass. Temps are different on these short little stretches and while the rest of the road is good they may be covered with a sheet of ice.Just remember:If the world did'nt suck, you'd fall off!
The more I see and read about Republicans and Democrats, the more I wish we had an Independent Party.
IMPEACH BUSH!!!!!!!!!!

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SUPERB (Whistle) (encore)Great info,
I do the gear and grade ratio, if its a 6 degree decline I subtract that from the 10 speed, (example) 6 degree grade subtract from a super 10 is 4, thats the gear i would go down in unless snowy, then I drop one more ....

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Let's keep this near the top for a while.

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We all need a reminder, so it's not just for Newbies.
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My 2 cents:
Never run in packs. Big Riggers with the smart mouth and running nose-to-tail will get you hurt. Always keep yur distance and that means not letting others tail your gate.
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Carry a bag of kitty litter with you. real handy for traction when you lose grip in a shipper's parking lot and a heck of a lot cheaper than a tow.
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Keep all of your doors and padlocks lubed [I like Howe's'}
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When I've been running in snow and ice, I park for the night [on a flat parking lot] with my trailer brakes released, tractor brakes set. If in doubt, use a wheel chock, but it will prevent your trailer brakes from freezing and dragging locked wheels across the parking lot in the morning.
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great thread, SRJ! Keep it going.
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dave]

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Hmmm, I accidently went through California with one set of chains. I called my DR and he told me to buy some at Boomtown. Do you think they gave me the right set of chains for all states? I have a full set of four now and well from a newbies idiocity I should have gotten some before I went to California. Thing is, I thought I was only going to LA and not up to Fairfield and over Donner. Can you enlighten me please on that subject.

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It's mostly about your FEET. Drive like there's a raw egg between your foot and the throttle/brake.
No matter how slow and careful you're being -- if you hit the brake or throttle too hard it'll skid.
A controlled skid to test the road:
You can stab the brakes very fast to test a snowy surface. You ONLY do this when the truck's absolutely STRAIGHT at SLOW speed on FLAT road.
Snow only - never on ice.
Take your time, think about it carefully, wait till the right time and place to do a controlled skid.
Push the clutch down.
Let the truck coast a bit to see what it feels like.
Then hit/release the brakes as quickly as your foot can move. If she skids, she'll get immediate traction again once the wheels roll free if the truck's straight.
After coasting to regain traction, gently release the clutch with your rpms matched to road speed to get some forward torgue back on your drives.
disclaimer: If not performed properly, this driving tip can kill, maim, and put you in jail. If the truck's bent, even slightly, it WILL start to jacknife. Never do a controlled skid with chains or cables or around any other traffic, etc.