Question:
I'am looking for input on a portable fridge and how to power it .
Would you plug it into a invertor or have a 12 volt unit. My experience with the 12 volt coolers is that the are not very effective in warmer weather. if you plug into an invertor can it run overnight off the batteries without running down the batteries.
Any input is welcomed
Bill

Answer:
Risky as hell to try to run in overnite without draining the batteries. There are ways to do it without draining the batteries, but i'm not quite sure how to do it at the moment. I have my own strategies, but it would take too long for me to get into detail about it right now----maybe when there's more time i can elaborate a little.
In short:
You could try.
Solar panels.
Build your own auxilary generator---pretty easy w/ a lawnmower type engine and an alternator.
Wind power. (quiet and will still work at night)
Or a combination of all 3
etc.
PLs describe your situation. Because the whole living in a truck thing is just not happening.

Answer:
Most drivers use a "cooler" with a built-in 12-volt cooling element. The element consists of a little fan that circulates air around a heat-exchanging unit. These "coolers" plug into a 12-volt outlet (cigarette outlet) and typically run a day or two without running down the truck's batteries (if the batteries are in good shape). A cooler will maintain around 40-degrees if the warm air output grill isn't obstructed, but will have trouble keepng temperature when the cab's interior temprature excees 80 degrees. These electric coolers maintain a 40-degree temp drop from their surrounding air temp. The plug can be reversed to turn it into a warmer. Coolers don't have a frozen compartmnt, and cost around $90.
The second alternative for powered refrigeration is an actual "refrigerator" similar to a home unit. Small units are made for trucks and campers that run off 12-volt power, but they must be hard wired to the truck's batteries since their power consumption exceeds the standard 10-amp limit of cigarette lighter outlets. These "refrigerators" have beter temperature control since they cycle on and off to an adjustable thermostat - just like a home refrigerator. They also have a frozen compartment, although because of the size, it is usually too small for more than a tray or two of ice cubes. 12-volt refrigerators are more expensive -- several hundred dollars -- and will run the batteries down faster since they use more juice. Some trucking companys don't want you installing an actual refrigerator in their truck (versus a plug-in cooler) since the refrigerator requires after-market wiring and can affect the truck's reliability if allowed to run-down the batteries.
The third alternative is very low tech -- an un-powered camping cooler you stock with ice. Ice is available at most truck stops for this purpose.

Answer:
Thanks for the replies
I use a 12v cooler now which as you stated oniy gives about 40 deprees lower then ambient. I'am looking for better solution and you have given me good ideas.
Thanks Much
Bill

Answer:
If your going to live in your truck then a real fridge would be worth while. They aren't cheap by any means but can save food alot longer and some will also freeze foods. Lots of drivers use them and all seem satisfied.
The below has several models on the left. All hardwire into your truck but work very well.
http://www.waecousa.com/page.aspx?p=CF-40
A few more or more of the same???
http://www.engeland.com.au/shopshow.toy?areanid=1530&categorynid=1531
Or just get one of the below. It works well for Phil.


Answer:
If you're putting a real 12-volt "refrigerator" -- using a compressor, etc -- in someone else's truck, make sure you've got their OK before spending money. Some operators/carriers don't want the risk since its direct connection to the battery harness bypasses the truck's breakers and discharge protection, etc..

Answer:
Actually think about the fridge like this, your home fridge cycles on and off, not on all the time like a 12v cooler, i have left my fridge on for up to 3 days and still started the truck right up, a little low on voltage but that is all. They do draw a bit of juice when the compresor first cycles on, but once running it is a low draw. Well worth it, mine cost a couple hundred or so and it works alot better than the cooler.

Answer:
I have a factory installed 12V fridge in my pete, and have never had a problem with it draining my batteries. I can let the fridge go for days. Heck - even if I run the inverter for about 10 hours, the fridge is no problem.
But then again, all that stuff is factory installed.

Answer:

Most of those 12v fridges like you find in factory installs have built in low voltage cutouts that protect the batteries from draining too much.
You can buy a device that you place between a 12v plug in device and the outlet that will shut down the current if battery power drops below a certain point.
Answer:
While it does have a cutoff, I have run my fridge for over 24 hours without turning on the truck, and the truck will fire right up.

Answer:
Battery condition:
Older or mis-matched batteries will run down faster. Our recent Petes' discharge system cuts off at the right time for new, healthy batteries, but allows older or sick batteries to discharge too long, leaving too little juice to turn the starter after they've been "protected" -- especially in cold weather.
Electrical system:
Our Freightliners used to be spec'd with a two-part electrical system. The accessories ran off a separate marine battery with its own automatic cutoff, which isolated the three starter batteries from discharge when the truck was off. (we had problems with mixed-up batteries, I don't know if Freightliner offers this package anymore)
In ideal situations, especially with an o/o who takes good care of their equipment and allows the discharge system to work properly with good batteries, a 12-volt fridge shouldn't interfere with reliable starts. However -- most trucks, fleets and otherwise, like to delay battery replacement as long as possible, and may not do the routine maintenance that identifies bad cells and other problems that could contribute to starting problems when additional heavy-draw accessories are added.
The other objection an owner or company could have to installing a hard-wired fridge is the risk of fire. Although obviously rare, trucks do burn to the ground without notice because of after-market add-ons. There are many stories (and a couple have been printed here if memory serves me) of owners not able to collect insurance because everyone points the finger at someone else. Peterbilt may say the wiring was after-market and voided the warranty. The fridge company says it wasn't installed properly. And the installer blames it on the the fridge or truck manufacturer. Lawsuits are expensive, even if you win.
The advice to check with the truck's owner before spending money on a hard-wired fridge was intended to cover all possible situations, and assumes there are many owners who don't want their drivers creating the possibility of additional risks for what is basically a luxury accessory. This may be expecially true with fleets that don't regularly return to a terminal location where they can be monitored and inspected for hair-brained wiring modifications some drivers would install if a blanket prohibition didn't forbid it.

Answer:
Most newer trucks have the low voltasge cutoff built into them. I know Freightliner does for sure and can be fairly sure the others do also. When it comes to weak batteries or simply wearing down good batteries a 12volt cooler will probably take them down much faster than a 12 volt fridge. The fridge cycles off and on while the cooler stays continually running. But if your batteries are weak it wont matter what you do or don't do. Their going to die sooner than later and you'll find yourself stuck soon enough.
Coolers are by far the cheapest and most common but an actual 12 volt/110 volt fridge is the best by all means.

Answer:
Its simple. See if your company allows you to install inverters. Mine does(up to 1750W). I bought a 1700W model and the company installed it at their shop. Any company allowing you to have an inverter will require that they do the install. They use a wiring harness that utilizes an in-line 60A fuse. Next, buy a small household fridge from Lowes or somewhere like that. While your at it, buy a small microwave. I got the lowest watt model i could find just to be safe. 500W, I think. Now, the next issue is placement of your fridge. Some companies dont allow you to remove the cabinet that normally houses a cooler. (Even the smallest household fridge probably wont fit in there). This is assuming you have a Freightliner. When I had one, I disassembled the cabinet and put it under the bunk, so technically, I didnt remove it from the truck. Now my assigned machine is a Pete 387 and I must strap the fridge to the floor in front of the cabinet, so it takes up some floor space. But its only about 2 feet tall so it makes a decent table. Always be sure its well secured. As far as power consumption goes, a good inverter should have a low voltage shut-off feature. I shut my truck off when I sleep as regularly as I can and never had a problem with batteries dying. When I go home for any length of time, I take whatever food I have with me and shut off the inverter and leave the fridge open. So I cant say Ive had any expierience leaving the inverter on for longer than 10 hours or so with the truck off. When I use the microwave, I always idle up and shut off all the other appliances just to be safe. The inverter cost me 200 bucks, the fridge about a hundred and the microwave like 40. Ive used this setup about 2 years and saved a huge ammount of money. Not to mention, kept a lot of pounds off of myself.
Answer:
Excellent post Mike.......uh.......I mean "Dude". Welcome to trucknet!
Sounds like you killed two birds with one stone -- a real refrig and a microwave by using 120-volt appliances via an inverter -- and did it a lot cheaper than what a 12-volt refrig costs.
Many companys will allow a big inverter if - like you said - they do the install. Let us know your solution to cold and hot running water...

Answer:
What about propane refrigerators, such as those found in campers and motor homes. Seems that a propane tank could be mounted on the outside of the truck somewhere (on the back or in a built on compartment, like an APU). The propane could also be used to heat a truck without idling.
Seems to me that somebody must have considered this before so I'm wondering if there is some sort of regulation against mounting a propane tank.