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Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas - Page 2
Question:
Originally Posted by Margareta Thanks so much for your info, shifts! Now I might dare to get myself a bottle of Mitsouko anyhow... It almost broke my heart reading how you were so hesitant about trying Mitsouko, so my reply to this thread came mainly from your post here. I felt the same way before I had sniffed my bottle, but one I did I knew I had to have it. The rest is history...

Answer:
I used 2006 EDT and parfum. Therefore, I would doubt that the 2006 EDP would smell any better, having smelled the highest and lowest concentrations already, and their general characteristics are the same. I still recommend parfum over anything and EDP over EDT.

I used 1980s EDT.
I used a vintage (exact date unknown) EDP.
I used 1970s EDC.
I do not know the story behind the lovely 1970s sample that was provided to me--where it was purchased, whether it was first-hand or second-hand.
Personally, I would disbelieve the validity of an unshiffed, e-Bay purchase of vintage Mitsouko. I would have to smell it myself, and only NOW that I have smelled the real thing. Before, I would not have known what to look for. Without that knowledge, I would only be able to trust getting an old bottle from a friend or relative.
I was sad to make this discovery, people. I was sad to tell you the truth, and I hope that you do not think I am gloating--that I have smelled the Real Mitsouko, and you have not. This is not my message at all I only want to tell you, as far as reformulations go, the real murder took place long ago.
Those of you who love the current Mitsouko and do not wish to be disappointed, don't try the pre-1907s UNLESS you love the current Mitsouko for the dry woodiness and not the sweet, fruity, peach. If that is the case, you would be happy that it has evolved in this direction.

Answer:
Originally Posted by shifts Of all formulations and all concentrations, the only one I've smelled is the new EdT and well, simply put, I love it. Now, I do of course not know what I'm missing out on but I will do my best to find out. But for someone who hasn't smelled the old stuff är any Mitsouko, would you guys who knows their vintage stuff go as far as to recommend not to smell it at all? Sounds like it from this thread... Myself, I don't think I could go back and not live without Mitsouko after I've treated myself with a bottle, it is waay too yummy for that Shifts thank you for this dose of clarity. I have come to adore Mitsouko and must admit that I too cannot envision my life without it in some form. It is still an amazingly original blend. However, I have found that, especially when wearing the modern parfum, I find myself saddened by the distinct mutilations upon this iconic blend. It may have been better for me to have never known this beauty in her heyday, for my heart always breaks a little when I wear the current version, as it does when I wear the modern Cabochard and Rochas Femme. Mitsouko is a harder adaptation for me as I discovered the vintage before the modern, it was the other way round for the other two I mentioned.

For now I shall look out for older stock bottles and I shall monitor my usage so I don't have to face the true horror. But I will probably end up wearing the modern version, only after seeking an alternative or even attempting to make my own.
To close: For one who has never experienced Mitsouko before I say that you should still try the modern version, but do not be surprised if it does not live up to the lofty descriptions of many others. It is an interesting scent in its own right and needs to be sampled fully, with an open mind, several times before passing judgement. It is an elegant, Old World scent, that may not immediately appeal to your modern sensibilities and tastes - but it is worth the effort. However, just like there is a vast difference between experiencing / living through the times of a world changing event and reading, watching a film or hearing about the event later; there is a measurable difference between the current version and the various vintage variations that we old timers are weeping over the loss of...

Answer:
How about this?
New purchasers, it is best to judge the new Mitsouko on its own merits. If you like it, then it is good. That is all that matters. Truly, this is a fair thing to do, because the old version was like an entirely different perfume, with the focus on a different aspect of the notes, altogether.

Answer:
Originally Posted by purplebird7 I was sad to make this discovery, people. I was sad to tell you the truth, and I hope that you do not think I am gloating--that I have smelled the Real Mitsouko, and you have not. Maybe I should comment on this as well, since my reply might have been what made you write this. I should have posted right off that I loved your post purplebird, because I really did. Very interesting although very saddening. I just thought I'd blow some positive air into this thread so it wouldn't all be mourning. I'm afraid to try on the real deal, but can on the other hand not wait until I do either.

Answer:
shifts, your comment was perfect. It put some optimism in this thread.
I was afraid yesterday, from the start, in my first post, that people would think I was bragging because there are people who try to be first to smell things. It is like a status symbol to say "I smelled the new..." And I did not want anyone to think I am like that.
You are a sincere critic and a truthful person, so I think you can handle knowing what the old Mitsouko smelled like. Also, I think the woodiness will be pleasing to you, and not so much the creamy peach, n'est ce pas?

Answer:
Many thanks to purplebird7 for the great, really specific info about how Mitsuoko has changed. A couple questions for those of you with this sort of knowledge and experience: Is there similar info out there about other frags? Do the other Guerlains I thought I'd tried resemble their originals? Après L'ondée made me smile (so bouyant and gardenlike without the ozone notes that now represent freshness) perhaps partly because I imagined that I was smelling Paris in 1906.
And another thought. How would you get ahold of oakmoss extract after these regulations? Will its manufacture be forbidden or only its inclusion in fragrances? I imagine police raids on clandestine Basenotes gatherings in unmapped catacombs, drinking in a last whiff of original Mitsuoko as the dogs close in. What's happening to the industry that has produced these now-regulated extracts and EO's?

Answer:
Originally Posted by purplebird7 [...]Those of you who love the current Mitsouko and do not wish to be disappointed, don't try the pre-1970s UNLESS you love the current Mitsouko for the dry woodiness and not the sweet, fruity, peach. If that is the case, you would be happy that it has evolved in this direction. Well this has really cheered me up! I have wondered why many reviewists have likened Mitsouko to Rochas Femme. My vintage Mitsouko parfum does share much of that almost boozy fruity peach liqueur note and the vintage Rochas Femme is similar, but much fruitier than the vintage Mitsouko EDT.

I am one of those who fell in love with the post 1990's drier woody oakmoss blends rather than the fruity peach blend. But from your description I think:

Rochas Femme (vintage)
Jean Patou Sublime EDP
Jean Patou Colony
Ava Luxe Mousse de Chine / Moss (especially layered with a dab of modern Rochas Femme)

...would all make suitable alternatives to soothe the vintage Mitsouko craving!

Answer:
being worried about the mousse de chene (oakmoss) ban and substitute is one thing but Mitsouko is a perfume from 1919 and has probably been altered many times before since its creation.
as I mentioned before on this thread, it also comes down to patchouli, and ambregris. It looks like the last time they used real ambregris was in the early 80's

Answer:
Originally Posted by Bois et Musc being worried about the mousse de chene (oakmoss) ban and substitute is one thing but Mitsouko is a perfume from 1919 and has probably been altered many times before since its creation.
as I mentioned before on this thread, it also comes down to patchouli, and ambregris. It looks like the last time they used real ambregris was in the early 80's Your first words about the ambergris in this one made me crave that version real bad. I would really r e a l l y want to know what that one smells like. Ambergris and sandalwood, it would make me drool I'm sure.



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