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Bitter Citrus Comparisons
Question:
In the spirit of Wicozani's Vetiver thread, followed by Paul's Sandalwood thread a month or so ago, I thought I'd start a bitter citrus comparison thread (this also follows closely on the heel's of the "longing for spring" thread, in case you can't tell that I'm tired of the cold weather). Let's look at some citrus favorites that are less sweet than they are sharp, crisp, and/or bitter. I'll start with a few, moving up in price:
1. Monsieur Balmain: Starts with a huge blast of cool lemon and then dries down a little spicier; also quite reasonable (less than $20).
2. YSL Pour Homme: the drydown reminds me a lot of the Balmain, but in the beginning less lemon and more spice.
3. Geo F. Trumper Eau de Portugal: Received this from a fellow Bnoter, a GREAT bitter lemon. Along the same lines as the Balmain, but a little sharper, crisper, and has an edge of class lacking in the Balmain.
4. MPG Racine: Citrus, vetiver, and some woods. Like most MPG, not particularly pleasant or easy wearing, but still unique and worth the effort.
5. Creed Bois de Cedrat: Along the same lines of YSL Pour Homme and Balmain, only a little woodier and with that Creed hint of class.
6. Malle Bigarade Concentree: Stinky oranges. I love it.
7. Bond Little Italy: Bitter oranges; sort of an orangier version of the Trumper. Honestly, for the price, this one is NOT one of my favorites, but in the middle of a sweltering hot summer, I think it's quite nice.
Putting them in order of personal preference, I'd say that my top choice would be the Malle (assuming money were no object), followed by the Creed, Trumper, Balmain, YSL, MPG, and finishing up with the Bond. The best in terms of all-around value would definitely be the Balmain.
So, what are some others? Feel free to amend/alter/ or change the ones I've written above.

Answer:
Declaration - Cartier

Answer:
Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents Declaration - Cartier Barry,
I've not tried that one... could you describe it or compare it to something else? What kind is it... spicy, bitter, sharp, etc?

Answer:
It has Bergamot, and Bitter Orange at the top, then Cardamom comes in with birch, cedar, oakmoss, vetiver. Some complain it has the stinky factor that you and I both love in Bigarade Concentree. That is what I like about it!
Very classy. Jean-Claude Ellena has been quoted as saying this is his fragrance he is most proud of. Dirty older brother to Terre d'Hermes maybe?

Answer:
I dont think that Bois De Cedrat contains a bitter citrus note - if you include it in the list, then you should also include Trumper's GFT.

I would say Creed Neroli Sauvage belongs in the list more than Bois De Cedrat.

Answer:
Originally Posted by zztopp I dont think that Bois De Cedrat contains a bitter citrus note - if you include it in the list, then you should also include Trumper's GFT.

I would say Creed Neroli Sauvage belongs in the list more than Bois De Cedrat. My list was just to get us started... by no means are there just seven! Yes, please add/change as you see fit. As for "bitter citrus," I guess maybe we're just defining it differently. I was just trying to differentiate it from sweet citrus (like MPG Centaur, Mat; Male, Cologne Sologne, or watermelon, grapefruit notes). Perhaps we can start another thread soon with "sweet" citrus comparisons.
As we all know, though, everybody's nose is different. I've had BdC before, but most recently I got my bottle from you... so it's neat how we get different things from it.

Answer:
I like Monsieur Balmain and love Bigarade Concentree. Balmain is a lovely everyday summery frag. The lemon smells very natural - sharp and juicy, freshly squeezed. It develops a waxy feel fairly quickly- which I don't mind. The base is light but lasts pretty well (and at less than £10 for 100ml I can forgive a lot).
I think that Mona di Orio Lux has a similar range of top notes, but executed with more panache. The sharp blast of the top-notes (Lemon Sicilia, Litsea Cubeba, Petitgrain Bigarade) is followed by wonderfully smooth heart and base notes of sandalwood with vetiver and amber. It keeps a citrus edge to it for quite some time.
Taylor Old Bond St Limes - more sour than bitter, moves to a powdery 'gentlemanly' base - again great for those fresh-shaven open-shirt here-comes-summer days.

Answer:
Fantastic, I love works-in-progress threads like this, if I can use that term to help suggest the developing nature of the thread.
I think I need help spotting bitter citrus rather than mere citrus. Then there are all the other citrus like elements that aren't exactly citrus precisely, like cedrat or verbena, but that we casually refer to as making a citrus scent.
Last week I wore Rochas's Moustache and for the first time was really knocked out by how great it is. It's a bit bitter, a bit sweet, a very yellow citrus, and all over a great base of white powder, and I don't mean the kind that makes you very happy but can bring time in prison. I'm not sure that it will count as a bitter citrus though, and similarly with Signoricci, another of my super favorites. So much of the citrus dryness that it has seems to be from the woody base, but I'm not sure finally exactly what it is, I just think citrus when I put it on.
--Chris

Answer:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc Barry,
I've not tried that one... could you describe it or compare it to something else? What kind is it... spicy, bitter, sharp, etc?
John,
To me, Declaration reminds me of Bulgari PH with a dirty kick. Almost as if you took a hint of that stinky orange, added some lemon and mixed in some of the slight smoke/tea character of Bulgari PH. It's a good fragrance, but was unfortunately far to feral on my skin. My dad wears it quite proudly, though.
Bulgari is sexy, on it's own.. in a serious/stuffy kind of way, but with the added sweaty citrus note, Declaration thrusts it's head forth in a very healthy nod, to Dior's Eau Sauvage.... but then quickly recoils in Bulgari PH modesty. It's certainly worth a try. There are three versions and I suggest the Concentrated one.
a.

Answer:
C&S Citrus Paradisi is a very unique, sharp combination of citrus and pepper. Diptyque Eau D'Elide is a unique combination of Citrus and lavender. Not sharp, but different.



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